When buying a gun from a member how do I check if the gun works before paying for it?

[BigBlaze]

Both is the correct answer!!!
If you are the buyer its nice to pay after the Paperwork is submitted so you know there is no issue.
If you are the seller you want money before you submit since there will be no argument over funds.

I just had a guy who paid after the DROS was ran and the seller came back in to complain that the buyer shorted him. He wanted us to get involved but that's a civil issue between them and if the buyer passes the check I'm delivering the gun.

Also had buyers complain after all is done that the seller was suppose to give him extra mags/parts/ect.

Do your best to protect yourself.

You can cancel the DROS and call off the sale. Drive home with your gun.
Be happy or pissed. Life goes on.

Not according to BONECUTR and he's an FFL

 

[BONECUTR]

You can cancel the DROS and call off the sale. Drive home with your gun.
Be happy or pissed. Life goes on.

Both parties would need to be OK with this. If you sell a gun and the buyer doesn't pay you or short pays the dealer is not involved and you would of already signed all the documents.

Seller: He didn't pay me.
Buyer: Yes I did.

The FFL is making $10 and is risking their own legal liability by getting involved. We can't play sides.

 

[decius_mus]

As a buyer and a seller, I usually pay/request payment when we start the paperwork.

As a seller, I do not sign anything if I don't have the agreed upon amount by that point.

Also, I don't accept nor pay via electronic payments because zelle and venmo do not allow firearm purchases on their network. Plus, cash is the best option anyway for both parties.

 

[BigBlaze]

Both parties would need to be OK with this. If you sell a gun and the buyer doesn't pay you or short pays the dealer is not involved and you would of already signed all the documents.

Seller: He didn't pay me.
Buyer: Yes I did.

The FFL is making $10 and is risking their own legal liability by getting involved. We can't play sides.

I totally agree with you.

 

[bonesurf]

It’s interesting how strident and opinionated people are on this subject in this thread and other threads like this. I’ve done A LOT of PPTs both ways over the years and other than the occasional flake never had an issue. I will amend that. I re assembled a 1911 wrong and it jammed during inspection and the buyer bailed. that's pretty much the only issue. If the seller wants money before paper work then inspection before. Whatever. Literally never had an issue once someone actually shows up. But it seems like there’s a lot of mistrust on this thread. just an observation. I did state that generally I dont pass funds until paper work is in process or done, but again, generally and honestly it's not a "deliberate" process it just sorta works out that way. again, just generally never had an issue. maybe I've just been lucky and naive, but I dont feel like most people doing this are out there trying to cheat each other. seems like lots of paranoia.

 

[Tere_Hanges]

As a buyer and a seller, I usually pay/request payment when we start the paperwork.

As a seller, I do not sign anything if I don't have the agreed upon amount by that point.

Also, I don't accept nor pay via electronic payments because zelle and venmo do not allow firearm purchases on their network. Plus, cash is the best option anyway for both parties.

Yup. Keep it simple. We meet inside. The buyer inspects the firearm. The seller answers any questions. The buyer decides if they want to go through with the deal, and if so, hands the cash to the seller. Seller counts it, and then the paperwork starts. No reason for it to be more complicated than that. I guess some people just want to try to ice skate uphill.

 

[BONECUTR]

It’s interesting how strident and opinionated people are on this subject in this thread and other threads like this. I’ve done A LOT of PPTs both ways over the years and other than the occasional flake never had an issue. I will amend that. I re assembled a 1911 wrong and it jammed during inspection and the buyer bailed. that's pretty much the only issue. If the seller wants money before paper work then inspection before. Whatever. Literally never had an issue once someone actually shows up. But it seems like there’s a lot of mistrust on this thread. just an observation. I did state that generally I dont pass funds until paper work is in process or done, but again, generally and honestly it's not a "deliberate" process it just sorta works out that way. again, just generally never had an issue. maybe I've just been lucky and naive, but I dont feel like most people doing this are out there trying to cheat each other. seems like lots of paranoia.

I would say in 17ish years in this industry I have seen under 10 problems between buyers and sellers. The people who are really up to know good will try to get you to not even go to an FFL. So many PPT's ask if they can inspect in the store and for their safety I would prefer that over a parking lot look over.

 

[H. Bowman]

This just isn’t really feasible. Time is precious. Meet up at range…pay range fee…. Hopefully lane is open….you just gonna check to see if the gun operates fine? Ok so then go to ffl if range is not an ffl, wait to get checked in and wait your turn. Finally do paperwork….yeah if I’m selling I’m not doing that. I just don’t have the time.

What's a range fee? Just pull off the side of the road out inna woods and set out a cardboard box.

 

[BONECUTR]

What's a range fee? Just pull off the side of the road out inna woods and set out a cardboard box.

Very safe to meet a stranger off the side of the road and hand him a loaded firearm....Im gonna follow you for more sound advice...

 

[GeeQ87]

Again, I’ve never personally asked to test fire a firearm, just thought of it to answer OP. If a seller is really in need of funds, he may make that exception. As a buyer wanting to test the weapon, I would hope they cover the range fee at least.

as someone with a full time job, side business, and a family, I too would have to consider if I have the luxury of spending that extra time for a sale. Most likely not, but if my lights were about to shut off and I needed that money, I’d entertain it. Just saying.

I’ve checked out weapons in the store, in the store’s parking lot (granted, I was buying off roster off a local Sheriff). It IS preferable in front of the counter before paperwork even starts.

 

[H. Bowman]

Well no, you hand it to them unloaded and let them load it. It's unsafe to hand loaded firearms to someone else, I'm surprised you don't know that what with being an FFL and all.

 

[kppd2000]

I’m mostly here to buy stuff I can’t buy elsewhere, and I’m not buying $6k+ race guns. I don’t need to test fire or even do a full field strip. I know that if I look it over and the gun doesn’t look like it’s lived outdoors in the desert, I rack the gun, test the trigger and slide release, I see it has a barrel lol then I know that the major parts are there and if they look good enough I still want to buy it. Even if I had to replace a few parts after receiving the gun if it had an issue or two it’s still worth it to me since I now have the registered part of the gun, and it’s either something I can’t get in this commie state or it’s such a good deal it’s worth it to me even with a flaw or two. Short of a whole new slide and barrel parts aren’t too pricey and labor is free if you know what you’re doing

A main part of a transaction for me is the vibe of the person I’m buying from. If you’re decent at reading people it’s obvious when someone is being honest and genuine or not. Even if the piece looks amazing I’m not gonna buy from someone who seems shady and has me questioning where this gun came from or what they are trying to hide. It just isn’t worth it to me. I’m not buying one of a kind guns, I’ll find another easily enough so it’s not worth risking anything for

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Suggestions? Just curious how the pros are doing it on here?

Were there any guns you were interested in buying that you are worried about? What kind of problems are you worried about?

 

[GeeQ87]

I’m mostly here to buy stuff I can’t buy elsewhere, and I’m not buying $6k+ race guns. I don’t need to test fire or even do a full field strip. I know that if I look it over and the gun doesn’t look like it’s lived outdoors in the desert, I rack the gun, test the trigger and slide release, I see it has a barrel lol then I know that the major parts are there and if they look good enough I still want to buy it. Even if I had to replace a few parts after receiving the gun if it had an issue or two it’s still worth it to me since I now have the registered part of the gun, and it’s either something I can’t get in this commie state or it’s such a good deal it’s worth it to me even with a flaw or two. Short of a whole new slide and barrel parts aren’t too pricey and labor is free if you know what you’re doing

A main part of a transaction for me is the vibe of the person I’m buying from. If you’re decent at reading people it’s obvious when someone is being honest and genuine or not. Even if the piece looks amazing I’m not gonna buy from someone who seems shady and has me questioning where this gun came from or what they are trying to hide. It just isn’t worth it to me. I’m not buying one of a kind guns, I’ll find another easily enough so it’s not worth risking anything for

Yup. Truthfully, MOST if not all, already have a list of things they want to do to it to make it feel theirs. I don’t buy guns and just leave them as is, but yea they’re not luxury guns, too poor for that lol

 

[Wolkenflieger]

Here is what I do as a buyer;

Meet seller inside a good FFL which handles walk-in PPTs without a long wait. My preferred FFL for this is 2A Zone Riverside but there are a few good FFLs preferred by others. Don't leave this to chance.

If the other party is too new to know better, insist you don't get trapped at an FFL which makes you wait forever or only does PPTs on alternate Tuesdays during a full moon. Pick a known-good FFL, which is always worth a little extra driving.

Make sure new buyers know what paperwork they need to bring. FSC, Real ID or passport/birth certificate and second proof of residence, etc. Real ID is best.

Get the gun's serial number and look it up if there's a verification site. Make sure the gun checks out as-stated, especially with higher end guns.

Inspect gun after FFL checks and clears it at the counter. Ask to dry fire if you want to do that with gun pointed in safe direction. Rack slide a few times. Don't flag anyone and keep that finger off the trigger.

This is the safest and only logical place to do this. There are potential legal consequences if an unreasonable cop sees you handling a firearm in a parking lot, even discreetly. You don't want a brandishing charge or worse.

A bad actor can also rob a buyer more easily outside the shop. Nothing is safer than the inside of an FFL, which is why I greatly prefer an FFL that lets me transfer cash inside, discreetly.

Also be careful when leaving with cash if you're the seller. Employ situational awareness, always.

If everything is good, hand seller cash (or step outside to hand seller cash), big bills preferably to reduce count time, and then start/sign paperwork.

Complete sale and if all went well, leave feedback on this site for the seller, and they should leave feedback for you. If they're new, walk them through the process and leave them feedback once they do it. I had one seller stiff me on feedback after a successful transaction but I had already left positive feedback for him.

Simple and safe!

P.S. I don't let randoms drive a car I'm selling either, but I will take them for a short drive if they need to know that it runs. I bought a used Performance Model 3 without driving it and it was fine, but the owner was as meticulous as I am.

P.P.S. I especially won't let anyone doused in cologne/perfume drive any of my vehicles. As it is, I've had sellers of guns absolutely covered in cologne and their weapons and cases stank of it. Coffee beans around the gun in a closed container solve that in due time.

P.P.P.S. One seller sold me a gun with a broken set screw so I couldn't get the rear sight off. Had to pay a gunsmith to help out.

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Suggestions? Just curious how the pros are doing it on here?

Sometimes it’s like buying a used car. It helps to learn about maintenance and servicing. You have honest folks and dishonest folks for sellers.

Knowing the mileage about the rig helps; in this scenario round count.

Deal with people that have some feedback.

It also helps to know a little about the backstory of the vehicle; the gat in this scenario. Figure out if it is all Oem parts? Ask them if there is anything I should know about; that I will need to maintenance, service, or fix. Certain things it might not be a problem for you to fix but it might be a problem for them. They might explain an issue and you already think of the spring or part that needs to be replaced. Honest ones will tell you certain things; for you it would just be like no problem, I’ll take care of it…..


If it’s a .22 rimfire gun, they are talking about sticky cartridges and extraction issues all of sudden but their extractor spring is low round count and ammunition is quality, look for very small burrs in the outer edge of the chamber from them maybe dry firing it without a snap cap. You could fix something simple like this with a chamber swage. Or if none of that is present, you could even upgrade the extractor to a nicer enhanced one if it’s an Oem one.

That’s why I asked if you could be a little more specific? What guns are you interested in and what kinds of issues are we talking about?

 

[DJD100]

Bring a snap cap?

This is what I do when I can't shoot it first.

 

[Churroz909]

Wait so it’s better to pay before or after the transfer?? How come??

In my experience as a seller. I preferred payment inside the FFL or just outside the front door.
It allows me to inspect/count the cash and gives me peace of mind knowing the agreed price is met. No funny business.
In my experience as a buyer. I’ve never had a problem paying in the parking lot only after I inspect the firearm. I’ve always inspected the firearm in the parking lot of the FFL. I check for any excessive wear of the chamber/barrel that may/may not match up with the seller’s approximate round count. Along with mag drop and confirm slide stop functions and dry fire 2-3x.

I had only one buyer who told me to wait for payment after paperwork was done. Made me uncomfortable but he did pay after. I cringed so hard when he took apart the gun and he dropped the slide onto the FFL’s glass display. It was a hard fall. I was worried and mad because I didn’t have the money in hand. The gun was technically still mine and he ‘could’ have damaged it and decline to purchase.

 

[Wolkenflieger]

In my experience as a seller. I preferred payment inside the FFL or just outside the front door.
It allows me to inspect/count the cash and gives me peace of mind knowing the agreed price is met. No funny business.
In my experience as a buyer. I’ve never had a problem paying in the parking lot only after I inspect the firearm. I’ve always inspected the firearm in the parking lot of the FFL. I check for any excessive wear of the chamber/barrel that may/may not match up with the seller’s approximate round count. Along with mag drop and confirm slide stop functions and dry fire 2-3x.

I had only one buyer who told me to wait for payment after paperwork was done. Made me uncomfortable but he did pay after. I cringed so hard when he took apart the gun and he dropped the slide onto the FFL’s glass display. It was a hard fall. I was worried and mad because I didn’t have the money in hand. The gun was technically still mine and he ‘could’ have damaged it and decline to purchase.

I would cringe for the glass top too!

 

[ascarydrawing]

Sometimes it’s like buying a used car. It helps to learn about maintenance and servicing. You have honest folks and dishonest folks for sellers.

Knowing the mileage about the rig helps; in this scenario round count.

Deal with people that have some feedback.

It also helps to know a little about the backstory of the vehicle; the gat in this scenario. Figure out if it is all Oem parts? Ask them if there is anything I should know about; that I will need to maintenance, service, or fix. Certain things it might not be a problem for you to fix but it might be a problem for them. They might explain an issue and you already think of the spring or part that needs to be replaced. Honest ones will tell you certain things; for you it would just be like no problem, I’ll take care of it…..


If it’s a .22 rimfire gun, they are talking about sticky cartridges and extraction issues all of sudden but their extractor spring is low round count and ammunition is quality, look for very small burrs in the outer edge of the chamber from them maybe dry firing it without a snap cap. You could fix something simple like this with a chamber swage. Or if none of that is present, you could even upgrade the extractor to a nicer enhanced one if it’s an Oem one.

That’s why I asked if you could be a little more specific? What guns are you interested in and what kinds of issues are we talking about?

The gun of interest would be a Glock 19 gen 3. Just wanted to know what to look for or what to do to verify it works. Thanks for asking by the way. This place is very supportive so I’m learning a lot. Barely getting into all this so yeah can say I’m new to all this so I’m trying to learn as much as I can do I don’t make to many mistakes when buying.