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Is it normal for everything to be out of stock??

Thank you, this is very helpful. The load I am shooting now feels like .22lr so I can’t imagine what one of these will feel like if they’re softer…
What’s your OAL? The pressure data he is giving you is at a very short OAL. I actually think 3.2 grains is too light. When I was using Titegroup with 147 grain round nose bullets, my standard load was 3.3 grains at 1.120”. That gave me a 10-shot average of about a 131 power factor. You don’t want to be too close to 125 power factor with your USPSA loads. You never know how well a particular chronograph used at a match will align with your own, and differences in temperature could affect velocity as well. No matter what OAL, charge weight, and bullet type you decide to use, you need to chrono your loads out of your own gun.
 
What’s your OAL? The pressure data he is giving you is at a very short OAL. I actually think 3.2 grains is too light. When I was using Titegroup with 147 grain bullets, my standard load was 3.3 grains at 1.120”. That gave me a 10-shot average of about a 131 power factor. You don’t want to be too close to 125 power factor with your USPSA loads. You never know how well a particular chronograph used at a match will align with your own, and differences in temperature could affect velocity as well. No matter what OAL and charge weight you decide to use, you need to chrono your loads out of your own gun.
I did see that his OAL was much lower. I’m loading at 1.140” but might bump that to 1.130” for margin of error to prevent the odd one that won’t chamber. I did try 3.3 and 3.4; at 3.2 I am right around 131 when I chronograph’d so I actually started loading a tiiiiny bit less (shooting for a range of 3.15-3.2 rather than a range of 3.18-3.23 ish). I tried to leave around 5 PF for fudge factor. I chrono’d in colder temps though and it’s warming up, so I think the load is safe to make PF

I will go down to 1.120 and 1.130” and check the chrono next time I go to a practice where someone brings one.
 
I did see that his OAL was much lower. I’m loading at 1.140” but might bump that to 1.130” for margin of error to prevent the odd one that won’t chamber. I did try 3.3 and 3.4; at 3.2 I am right around 131 when I chronograph’d so I actually started loading a tiiiiny bit less (shooting for a range of 3.15-3.2 rather than a range of 3.18-3.23 ish). I tried to leave around 5 PF for fudge factor. I chrono’d in colder temps though and it’s warming up, so I think the load is safe to make PF

I will go down to 1.120 and 1.130” and check the chrono next time I go to a practice where someone brings one.
Sounds good. By the way, Titegroup is kind of the basic standard, but you might want to try some Sport Pistol if you can find it. Check Ammoseek for lowest prices and availability. Sport Pistol has a similar burn rate as Titegroup, but it’s cleaner and it meters a lot better. It’s more like N320, but a lot less expensive.

These are my USPSA powders:
IMG_4810.webp

Experimenting with different powders and loads is part of the fun, but I don’t think you can go wrong finding a USPSA load that works for you with the powders highlighted above. I like the faster-burning powders (Titegroup, Sport Pistol, and N320) for 9mm pistol loads, and the medium-burning powders (Win 231/HP-38 and N340) for .45 pistol and 9mm PCC loads.
 
If you're in the SoCal San Gabriel valley area, check with Phillips Wholesale in Covina. He's showing 1 and 4 pounders of Titegroup in stock.


Edited:
There's a new member that's selling Titegroup 8 pound kegs and Xtreme 147 bullets for pretty good prices in the Los Angeles area.

 
Last edited:
Sounds good. By the way, Titegroup is kind of the basic standard, but you might want to try some Sport Pistol if you can find it. Check Ammoseek for lowest prices and availability. Sport Pistol has a similar burn rate as Titegroup, but it’s cleaner and it meters a lot better. It’s more like N320, but a lot less expensive.

These are my USPSA powders:
View attachment 193672

Experimenting with different powders and loads is part of the fun, but I don’t think you can go wrong finding a USPSA load that works for you with the powders highlighted above. I like the faster-burning powders (Titegroup, Sport Pistol, and N320) for 9mm pistol loads, and the medium-burning powders (Win 231/HP-38 and N340) for .45 pistol and 9mm PCC loads.
This is great, I saved the table for the future.

I actually just went in to a small local ammo shop near my office and they don’t carry powder anymore, but had an 8lb can of titegroup for $320 so I just snatched it. Seems it is 310-320 most places online that have it out of stock, and didn’t have to pay hazmat or shipping. Hope I can find some acceptable primers nearby, I know Cabelas has my 147 xtreme bullets

I will also keep these other orders in mind for my next order… I love tinkering and experimenting so hopefully cabelas has at least one of them in 1lb for me to play with
 
This is great, I saved the table for the future.

I actually just went in to a small local ammo shop near my office and they don’t carry powder anymore, but had an 8lb can of titegroup for $320 so I just snatched it. Seems it is 310-320 most places online that have it out of stock, and didn’t have to pay hazmat or shipping. Hope I can find some acceptable primers nearby, I know Cabelas has my 147 xtreme bullets

I will also keep these other orders in mind for my next order… I love tinkering and experimenting so hopefully cabelas has at least one of them in 1lb for me to play with

Regarding primers, another person here posted the link to this:


I took a chance on this brand and ordered it. Worked out to be $0.044 per primer.

The 5,000 primers arrived this week and I loaded and fired the first 100 today and they seemed to work fine.
 
I have been reloading since about 1983. I have learned that you buy what is available to you when you see it, and not wait around up until some seriously good deal comes along. Be sure to have tons of the various components laying around. I literally have five gallon paint buckets full of the various brass I reload (which is pretty much everything). I have even resorted to casting my own bullets occasionally when I’m reloading for a calibre, like for my 1894 Win .32-40. You simply cannot buy 32 caliber bullets these days, particularly in rifle sized 165 grain. It’s far easier than you think. (Learn too that 30-30 can be resized to 32-40 by simply using your resizing dies).

I stock all sorts of powders than buy it in the larger sized containers. Bullets themselves are rarely hard to find,—usually the rare stuff are primers and favorite powders. Keep a good stock on hand. Settle on powders that have performed well for you. Only change away from the standards if there is a shortage. That’s usually thr biggest problem, having to work up special new loads. I use a LabRadar as a chronograph.

I began reloading 45 ACP and 30-06 back in the day, but broadened to 9mm, 270 Winchester, 40SW and 357SIG, and even 7.62x54R. Just be aware of what you have in stock and try to stay ahead of it before a political time causes shortages. Despite living in California for many years, I don’t let that stop me.

Dan
 
Regarding primers, another person here posted the link to this:


I took a chance on this brand and ordered it. Worked out to be $0.044 per primer.

The 5,000 primers arrived this week and I loaded and fired the first 100 today and they seemed to work fine.

Just an update on these primers... I've had two failure to fire instances out of the first 500 rounds I reloaded with these primers. Different guns and the primers were definitely struck.

Never had this happen with the other primers I've used, so they seem to be just okay. They also seem softer than the primers I've used in the past.

So, just a heads up if you were considering them. They were cheap and I only use them to reload range ammo. I wouldn't use these for anything else.
 
Just an update on these primers... I've had two failure to fire instances out of the first 500 rounds I reloaded with these primers. Different guns and the primers were definitely struck.

Never had this happen with the other primers I've used, so they seem to be just okay. They also seem softer than the primers I've used in the past.

So, just a heads up if you were considering them. They were cheap and I only use them to reload range ammo. I wouldn't use these for anything else.
Ive never bought any discount off brand primers that didn't have issues. Those aren't even that cheap Ive found Winchester SPP for around that price in the last 6 months
 
Take up a cap and ball revolver, or join up with a black powder club. I was actually thinking about doing that.
Unless you make your own, black powder prices are currently worse than smokeless. It's put a real damper on shooting my cannons.
 
Winchester SPPs for $0.04? Nice.
miwall was down to 180 a bit ago but they are 220 right now. If you factor in the components you lose when you get duds it's worth it to get primers that go bang I feel
 
Really only out the primer and 4.7gr of Win231 for me. I pull the bullet and reuse it and the brass. But I see your point.
Fair enough, I used to try to save them but funny enough I just don't get duds anymore haha. Even just practicing I find it really annoying to get duds because you never know if it's going to be a squib, so you gotta stop and pay attention when you eject it and it ruins my rhythm
 
Fair enough, I used to try to save them but funny enough I just don't get duds anymore haha. Even just practicing I find it really annoying to get duds because you never know if it's going to be a squib, so you gotta stop and pay attention when you eject it and it ruins my rhythm

On the bright side, it's training for clearing your gun in case of something happening.
 
On the bright side, it's training for clearing your gun in case of something happening.
I shot 10k rounds of Servicios I don't need any more practice LOL
 
If you have several good data books you will always be able to cross reference a powder that is in stock somewhere .. My favorite are the Lvman reloading books..Many different series of them will have enough data for you through certain powder shortages.. if you look at the Hodgdon manuals, you will find there’s only Hodgdon data in there. If you use the Lyman or the Speer manual
You’ll find plenty of cross-references for other powders.. my favorite is 700 X basically a shot shell powder that can be used for all the slower stuff under 1000 ft./s. But lately it’s been hard to get so I’ve been using Hodgdon data because it seems like right now their powders are easier to get..
 
If you have several good data books you will always be able to cross reference a powder that is in stock somewhere .. My favorite are the Lvman reloading books..Many different series of them will have enough data for you through certain powder shortages.. if you look at the Hodgdon manuals, you will find there’s only Hodgdon data in there. If you use the Lyman or the Speer manual
You’ll find plenty of cross-references for other powders.. my favorite is 700 X basically a shot shell powder that can be used for all the slower stuff under 1000 ft./s. But lately it’s been hard to get so I’ve been using Hodgdon data because it seems like right now their powders are easier to get..
I just grabbed 4 more lbs of Titegroup, but scored about 8lbs in a 12 lb keg of 700x for about $15.00 when a neighbor passed and I bought his pistol and shotgun reloading gear. I figured it’s only useful for .45 ACP. A little nervous about it metering in a Dillon 750 and think I may be hand measuring each round.
 
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