18+ Content Warning

By clicking Enter, you confirm you are 18 years of age or older and agree to comply with all applicable local, state, and federal laws.

Notice: Any content or member activity - including anything you may buy, sell, transfer, or discuss - must comply with current and upcoming laws.

Members are encouraged to stay informed: California Firearm Laws: 2026 Outlook & 2025 Recap . Responsibility for compliance rests solely with the individual member.

caguns.net

Welcome to CAguns.net!
Join our growing community where you can ask questions, share knowledge, or browse our classifieds section.

Sign up for a free account today and unlock full access! Once registered, you can search, post, and take advantage of exclusive features unavailable to guests.

A note on why more of the site now requires an account: automated scrapers and AI systems have been crawling our forums and classifieds at a scale. Requiring sign-in for those sections is the most effective tool we have. It takes a minute to register, it's free, and it keeps what happens here between actual members.

New to California gun ownership or trying to keep up with the changing laws? Check out our sister site CA2A.com — free courses, plain-English legal updates, and step-by-step guides built for California owners.

Advanced features are available only to registered members. Register today!

Question Recommendation for Bolt Gun under $1000

All I can recommend in that budget range (because I was there) is a Howa 1500 barreled action + your choice of stock. Depending on stock choice you could come under budget.
I'm leaning that way too, although the Rem 700 is back as an option.
 
I'm leaning that way too, although the Rem 700 is back as an option.
It should be. Lots of aftermarket support for it from stocks to triggers. The Howa is limited. Its kind of set it and forget it kinda piece. Only a couple aftermarket triggers, cut the spring or buy a gunbloke kit.

I went with 6.5 24" Heavy for easier distance. 850 is my max range near me. Can hit it. Not all day but I CAN hit it. ;)
 
It should be. Lots of aftermarket support for it from stocks to triggers. The Howa is limited. Its kind of set it and forget it kinda piece. Only a couple aftermarket triggers, cut the spring or buy a gunbloke kit.

I went with 6.5 24" Heavy for easier distance. 850 is my max range near me. Can hit it. Not all day but I CAN hit it. ;)
I'm not sure I can hit anything right now 🤣 but I'm definitely leaning towards the Rem 700 for the reasons you mentioned. I like to tinker, so getting something with a lot of aftermarket support makes sense. I'm just waiting for the right deal on one, and maybe if this idiot tax will go away.
 
True. I was thinking about buying a .223 Howa Barreled action from Brownells and just purchasing a chassis separately. I'm also looking further into just getting a Ruger American 2.
Have you purchased your .223 bolt gun? If not, I may have one available.
 
I'll throw out a wild card for fun:
Finnish Mosin, particularly an M39, as they have Finnish-made barrels.
You get really interesting history. Depending on the receiver date, you could be holding a rifle originally made during the time of the Russian Empire. It could have been used in WWI. It was then part of Soviet inventory. The Finns then either captured or purchased it. They then replaced the barrel, and reworked it into something better. That's some real history. Pretty cool, I think anyway.

 
I also would suggest Bergara and Howa. I have run both great rifles for the money. I believe the Bergara are on sale for just under $1000 right now.
 
If you decide to reload; 6.5 CM is the way to go. You can find great deals on American reloading and get pulled ELD-M for about .20 per bullet and primed brass for .40 each. Primer prices are steadily coming down and availability is much better than before. Powder isn’t hard to find at all and you can realistically load great ammo under .50 CPR.
 
There is a nice howa 1500 308win Scout model in the marketplace. Very nice if I must say myself, exceptional price. ;)
 
I've been thinking about getting a bolt gun and was looking for recommendations on a good rifle under $1000 (without optics). I've been doing my own research but love bouncing ideas off of others.

I'm not entirely new to the subject but I haven't shot bolt guns extensively nor have I owned one in about a decade. Will 99% be used as a range toy for target shooting. No plans to get into competition shooting or anything like that. Just something fun to shoot at the range out to a few hundred yards.

Some rifles I've been looking at are the Ruger American Gen 2, Savage Axis 2 Precision, Howa 1500 Hera H7, Bergara B14 HMR, and Tikka T3x Lite.

I would love the Tikka but not sure how well the pencil barrel will do in a PRS application. I could stretch a little and go for a heavier barrel Tikka like the CTR but that would be drifting out of the price range I would like to stay in so I'm looking for alternatives. Caliber of choice would be .233 (if available, for cost effectiveness) or .308.

Looking for something reliable, fairly accurate (for the price), and upgradable in the distant future (chassis, barrel, etc.).

Would love to hear everyone's thoughts!
IMO you can't beat what someone has done with a mil-surp as far as bolt actions go..
 
If PRS is a goal 700 action compatible, Tikka, Savage/Howa in that order.

Mainly bc the prefits, chassis/stocks, triggers are about that available to build out a ~20lb rifle.

I would look at sticking with calibers in a 308 bolt face.

Trainer caliber would be a 308.

Game caliber I'd look at something that has fewer mag tuning issues like 6gt. Easy mode reloading would be nice.

There plenty of new $299 Savage rifles and used cheapie parts out there to get started if you do not reload or have positional shooting down.

I would want to be dumping tons of cheaper precision bullets by the 1000s if wind calling and shooting to unknown distance out to 600yds with a dope card isn't in your wheel house. Available brass and a caliber that isn't terribly powder sensitive are helpful for quantity practice.
 
Yes, I would prefer if the rifle were .223 Rem since I usually already shoot a lot of that and it's on the more affordable side. If the rifle is not available in .223 then .308 Win is a possibility.

Will be using factory ammo.
For .223, the Savage 12vss is affordable and hard to beat.
 
For .223, the Savage 12vss is affordable and hard to beat.
If you hung out in the precision, lr, varmint, PRS, f class, BR sites you can buy someone's beater or trainer for less than than that Savage.

The trick is focusing on goals with real data.

I swear anyone could grab a rimfire and meet Ikeo at Richmond for a practice day. Go hit the conexes for the less used props. Setup the Bay closest to the entrance to the action range and try the theories out.

SoCal or CentCal there are other ranges. Angeles in LA is one of my particular faves. Pala is good. Sac Valley is good. That weird little place in Gorman is good.

Kneeling/hunched over ladder prop, doghouse, couple window sections of various height.

The rifle could mechanically maintain 1moa. Very quickly the shooter will have a wobble that's all over the place.

Now take out PRS as a goal, since .223/5.56 loads to 80gr are difficult to spot past 400yds. Wind certainly is a factor vs the usual hunting calibers.

OP sounds like they don't reload, which makes precision 223/5.56 spendy.

I would tell them to go build out a nice precision rimfire and attend a ton of action practice and rimfire matches. Blocks of Eley or Lapua are not expensive.

The overall goal is to skill up for a given use case and shoot small groups.

Buying random gear without sitting on 2-4 of the expected shooting positions for your use case often produces the need to replace gear.
 
Yeah, I purchased a new Ruger American a few days ago. Got a good deal on it. I'm open to hearing what you have to offer though. Feel free to send me a PM. Thanks!
I picked up a 16" Ruger American 2 in 5.56 a while ago. I never intend to use it for PRS, just a fun gun, but I did trick it out a bit: Sharps Bros chassis, trigger spring kit, metal bolt cover (hated the feel of the plastic), TTI brake, and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting about. With the right ammo, I can get consistent 1" groups at 100. Overall, it's a nice rifle, but man the action is trash! Even after polishing the bolt, the bolt is super rough. Not sure if there is much else to do about that. With what I put into it, it probably would have been better to just pay a little more and gotten a Masterpiece Arms in .223 Wylde.

IMG_2715.jpeg
 
I picked up a 16" Ruger American 2 in 5.56 a while ago. I never intend to use it for PRS, just a fun gun, but I did trick it out a bit: Sharps Bros chassis, trigger spring kit, metal bolt cover (hated the feel of the plastic), TTI brake, and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting about. With the right ammo, I can get consistent 1" groups at 100. Overall, it's a nice rifle, but man the action is trash! Even after polishing the bolt, the bolt is super rough. Not sure if there is much else to do about that. With what I put into it, it probably would have been better to just pay a little more and gotten a Masterpiece Arms in .223 Wylde.

View attachment 25027
I know a lot of people that bought those rifles. Funny thing is that some people notice cost cutting and some don't.

When the MDT lss came out, some people would adapt their shooting to a light setup. They could appreciate a chassis that had static torque values to maintain mechanical zero of setup. The tradeoff of being super light to haul with AR ergos for positional shooting was hit or miss.

You want to practice expert recoil control, try cold bore shots with a sub 5-lb 223 class rifle. It's a pain to keep your target in view using an under 6x optic.

Things you learn when setting up gear in a vacuum.

All that rifle shooting mechanics aside, I would stretch the budget and buy this: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1075373469

It's a Savage competition action. Right handed bolt, left port. That helps you stay in your shooting position whether seated or prone shot to shot.
I would ask who chambered the Brux and Krieger barrels. Then talk to the person who did the work. I wouldn't care as much about rounds downrange bc 223 and you're getting 2 barrels. The main thing is that the barrels were properly chambered by someone and not a factory ream and who cares type deal.

The stock is something I'd find a good deal on a mechanical front rest and a rear bag. http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

All of this is so someone can have the experience of a purpose built rifle to level their shooting journey at about 2/3-1/2 depending on labor.

You're essentially buying the barrels and getting the rest of the gun + gunsmith labor for free.

I'd start with keeping 10shots on a dime at 100yds sitting and prone using a cheap fixed ~10x.
Work out the centerfire rifle shooting skillset from there.
 
Last edited:
I picked up a 16" Ruger American 2 in 5.56 a while ago. I never intend to use it for PRS, just a fun gun, but I did trick it out a bit: Sharps Bros chassis, trigger spring kit, metal bolt cover (hated the feel of the plastic), TTI brake, and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting about. With the right ammo, I can get consistent 1" groups at 100. Overall, it's a nice rifle, but man the action is trash! Even after polishing the bolt, the bolt is super rough. Not sure if there is much else to do about that. With what I put into it, it probably would have been better to just pay a little more and gotten a Masterpiece Arms in .223 Wylde.
How do you like it so far? I have the Gen 2. Standard in .223 and my only concern would be impact shift due to heat. Barrel is a little thin some I'm thinking of a few things I can do...I can either re-barrel the Ruger or sell it and get a Howa 1500, or sell it and get a Tikka T3x in .223 and re-barrel that. For me, I need it to be in .223 so there's not a ton of heavy barreled options.
 
Back
Top Bottom