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recoil spring assembly.

Blade

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I’ve always stuck to oem springs and i was curious on what people are running nowadays. What lb do you run and why?

Also im new to competition shooting so ive just been using 124gr and sometimes 115 if im just shooting a steel match. Lmk your thoughts.

Currently shooting a m&p 5” and a glock 17.3
 

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To be quite honest those who can not just tell the difference between spring changes in striker fire guns, but can actually resolve a difference on target/in scores are chasing the last 10% of performance, not the first 90%, and even then I've met some world class shooters who do absolutely minimal work to their guns and just go out and shoot. I've played with springs a little bit in my M&P, but didn't see anything out of the change that would warrant any kind of recommendation, and I leave my G17 alone and just let it eat. Especially in competition, there's so much more to be made up...
 
Stock, I'm not anywhere near the level where it's a focus or would make a meaningful difference

I did swap out the PDP RSA for ZRT's v spec, but that was more to make it a range toy before it grew on me enough to use it for a few competitions
 
This video has way too much detail and you can skip to like 22 minutes to get the results, but the gist is that if you are noticing that your 2nd shot when you shoot fast doubles is going high or low, you can increase spring weight to make it dip more or decrease weight to make it dip less. This is also going to be dependent on what ammo you are shooting, if you are shooting 127 power factor ammo vs +p defensive ammo the recoil characteristics will be different. But as you can see in the video, he only changes his M&P spring weight from stock 16 to a 15. A stock spring will become a 15 in a few thousand rounds anyway. I just run stock springs in my M&P, I've tried down to 13 and even with low power factor hand loads I think it's just better to run the stock spring.

On my 2011 it's different, when I first built it and had a 12oz steel grip module I had to increase the spring weight to counter balance the weight, it kept shooting high unless I muscled the gun down. But I only went from 8 to 9. Then I put a polymer grip on and it was too heavy, it was dipping down on the second shot but I just went back to 8. But then when I got some slide serrations and lightening cuts the slide was moving too fast, there was noticeably more recoil and I went back to a 9. But those were big changes and even then it was a lb up or down. So unless you are noticing that your gun dips severely or isn't returning to where you want it and staying high, you probably won't get anything out of 🍆ing with the springs. Keep in mind you also want to make sure your grip is actually good and you aren't just gripping like a dork. I feel like I should point out that in the video below the guy really isn't locking his wrists out and there is a LOT of movement. Especially with the 5" M&P you should be shooting pretty flat it's a pretty flat shooting gun.


 
Thanks my dudes I was curious because I’m at that point now that I have all my gear and upgrades I want to stock up on extra parts for the performance side my competitive guns. Where I could identify the problem during a match with a quick diagnosis and switch out components that are a quick fix. I have a stock pile of mags, springs, batteries, and I’m gonna build a little recoil assembly kit. With all the info you guys provided I’m gonna stick with oem or as close to oem poundage. Thank you again!
 
To be quite honest those who can not just tell the difference between spring changes in striker fire guns, but can actually resolve a difference on target/in scores are chasing the last 10% of performance, not the first 90%, and even then I've met some world class shooters who do absolutely minimal work to their guns and just go out and shoot. I've played with springs a little bit in my M&P, but didn't see anything out of the change that would warrant any kind of recommendation, and I leave my G17 alone and just let it eat. Especially in competition, there's so much more to be made up...
Yep this makes sense, just like many sports, but at least a spring is dirt cheap, unlike worrying about if you have $8k of Ohlins suspension or not hahaa
 
15lb springs in the Glocks with target or reloaded (soft) ammo. If you're shooting any of the NATO or +P and beyond stuff the OEM spring is best. I do run a 13lb in my G34, but you absolutely have to make sure you have good hold of it at all times otherwise it will not cycle. I had zero malfunctions with it, then let my buddy shoot it and he had non stop malfunctions. I loaded it back up, zero malfunctions. Same ammo, same day, same mag, different shooter.
 
Stock weight from Wolfff springs. If wolfff doesn’t make it stock weight from oem.
 
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