Rules:
- Muzzle fully covered
- Trigger area covered
- Slots must match the belt width
- Belt must fit into the slots such that the belt slide through mostly freely
- Any detachable loops must have Pull the Dot or Discreet Carry Concepts (DCC) clips. Closed loops are fine.
- Holster must be properly molded to the firearm. No "generic" holsters that support many models with some exceptions.
- Retention is essential and must have some way to hold the gun tight.
- Mouth of holster must not collapse when the gun is removed
- Sweat guards often help, especially for IWB holsters. Some OWB pancake holsters will have them.
- Holster should be silent. No squeaking or clicking.
- Attachment device should not damage the belt unless you do not care. DCC clips can, but are so good it's worth it.
- Prefer attachment hardware on the ends of the holster, not on the face, to minimize overall thickness.
- Height as compared to belt matters. Some guns sit high (see Privateer Leather Navigant), some mid (Privateer Highwayman) and some low (Corsair). This matters depending upon what you're trying to do.
- Holster depth affects concealability, especially for IWB holsters.
- Forward cant must be correct for your body type and gun size. Too much cant can make the rear of the slide and rear sight print if the holster is positioned too far forward. Conversely, the butt of the gun can print out the back of your shirt if the holster has no cant (vertical drop).
- Guns with hammers have less slide material over the hand than striker fired guns like Glocks. The outside point of the slide can print. Holster depth can mitigate or exacerbate this.
- Holsters with lights can get absurdly large. The result is that area can print or be uncomfortable.
- Holster should be sturdy enough to not break or come off if someone tries to grab your gun and you end up fighting for it.
- Body side of the holster should be comfortable. It should not have sharp, or overmolded, corners. You'll feel this.
- All stitching or hardware must be tight, well done, and make sense. Some holsters are adjustable and any hardware should accommodate it.
I will think of other things later since it's late.
All that said, you're probably going to have to try a bunch of holsters before you settle on one.
Examples for the Glock 19:
Tenicor ARX or ARX LUX
Privateer Leather Highwayman (mid ride, pancake style)
There are a variety of holsters to choose from. Try to avoid Galco; they typically have problems such as squeaking, not great fit, or other deficiencies that are annoying. I disliked their Combat Master immensely. Also avoid Askins Avenger style holsters, paddle holsters, and Safariland ALS 6378/7378 holsters. The Safariland is for your LARPing needs, but the others stick out too much to be called anything remotely "concealable".
The ARX has about a 10 degree cant. I'm not convinced this is for the best, but I'm giving the holster a chance. I much prefer Privateer Leather. Not only does he have three heights for his pancake holsters, he can also change the forward cant for you.
You can try the DeSantis Speed Scabbard. It violates several of the rules, but it does get you into a holster sooner rather than later. It violates rules 3, 8, 10 (sometimes), and 19. Sometimes it's comfortable, so it depends upon your body shape, belt, and gun.
Privateer Leather Highwayman
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