M1 Garand extraction problems?

[five.five-six]

I was planning on taking my new to me garand out with my son today. I made some ammo last night and decided to do a cycling check. I loaded up a clip and cycled it through, I had about 3:8 failures to extract from the op-rod cycling. Tried again and about 1/2 wouldn’t extract. Double feed on a garand with a live round in the chamber is a real but pucker event on a garand. I stripped the gun down and thoroughly clean the bolt with car cleaner, ultrasonic cleaner, then soaked it in CLP and blasted it with an air hose. Hit it with a brush as best I could. Put it all back together and now my FTE’s are about 1:8. I think I’m gonna run it anyways, the extractor does look like it could be a little worn, but I am not an expert. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[smoothy8500]

Your reloads look pretty long. Like the cannelure is a 1/4" past the neck. Could the ogive be jamming in the throat.

Did you check they pass with the "plunk test" whether they drop in or drop out with gravity? Or is this a tried and tested load with the exact same components?

 

[five.five-six]

Your reloads look pretty long. Like a 1/4" past the cannelure. Could the ogive be jamming in the trhoat.

Did you check they pass with the "plunk test" whether they drop in or drop out with gravity?



View attachment 160267

I’m confident they are not long. they are 150’s and the cannelure is conspicuously far from the throat. I plunk test the first in the run, set the bullet to 3.326 OAL. They do look long but they drop right in. If they were jamming into the lands, I’d see marks at the ogive and I do not.

They do drop in and out with gravity. On the FTE’s I just hold the bolt back and push the next round down into the magazine, point the barrel up and they drop right out. Some required a slight flick with a toothpick to get them started falling (overcome case lube adhesion)


I did consider seating them to the cannelure, and I’m fairly sure the reduced displacement would be safe (150’s over 38.0 grains IMR 3031)

Of course, I do not trust AI with my eyes but confirmed with Lyman’s 50th, 47th, lee modern reloading and Ken water’s “pet loads”.

 

[smoothy8500]

If they drop in/out fine, they should be ok. Sounds like it could be the extractor. I am assuming you just "cleaned" the bolt, but didn't fully strip it? At least confirm the extractor moves under spring pressure. Possible a sliver of brass went under the spring plunger. Unless you see a chip or gouge the minor wear on an extractor is a non-issue.

 

[GoldensRule]

Have you thoroughly cleaned the chamber with the specialized M1 chamber brush and solvent? Also thorough cleaning of the extractor and ejector assembly. Lastly, check the ejector spring. Make sure it isn't weak or broken.

 

[five.five-six]

If they drop in/out fine, they should be ok. Sounds like it could be the extractor. I am assuming you just "cleaned" the bolt, but didn't fully strip it? At least confirm the extractor moves under spring pressure. Possible a sliver of brass went under the spring plunger. Unless you see a chip or gouge the minor wear on an extractor is a non-issue.

Yea, I didn’t strip the bolt. I don’t have the tool. the extractor moves and I blasted it with carb cleaner, air, brush, CLP, ultrasonic etc. the spring seemed on the weaker side to me though. I could move the extractor with my finger not hurting all that much.

I’m about to order this and try to find someone to help me instal it.

M1 Garand Extractor Rebuild USGI NOS | eBay

USGI NOS M1 Garand Bolt Rebuild Kit, one USGI firing pin, one USGI extractor, one USGI ejector spring with plunger and one USGI extractor spring with plunger

www.ebay.com

The brass was PMC once fired mil crimped. I know it was once fired because I swaged the crimp on each of them.

 

[smoothy8500]

I didn’t strip the bolt. I don’t have the tool.

If you can find a NOS extractor and plunger spring (the shorter spring), just buy that instead of complete kit. Don't really "need" the tool, but it helps. Might need a third hand, but press in the ejector and use 1/8" punch to press the extractor shaft on bottom side of bolt.

 

[Gryff]

Mine was having extraction problems after it sat safe for several years. It was actually ripping the rim off the case. Bought a brass bristle chamber brush and cleaned the chamber heavily. Problem solved.

 

[Striker62]

I was always told the general rule is to follow the reloading manual of bullet manufacture.
Hornady 150 grain FMJ's recommended OAL is 3.185


Also, what are you seeing on the casing where the extractor is making contact?

 

[Striker62]

rebuilding the bolt typically does not require the jig.

Video >>

 

[five.five-six]

Well, I think it just wanted to bang. Ran 4 clips through today flawlessly. Dang, I love that rifle.


I did have to forward assist 2 clips first round to get it going but other that it was pure joy to shoot. I'll make some at 3.185" see if it chambers better.


Thanks for all the help!

 

[AR15barrels]

Yea, I didn’t strip the bolt. I don’t have the tool. the extractor moves and I blasted it with carb cleaner, air, brush, CLP, ultrasonic etc. the spring seemed on the weaker side to me though. I could move the extractor with my finger not hurting all that much.

I’m about to order this and try to find someone to help me instal it.

I have the bolt tools for M1 Garand/M14/M1A and M1/M2 Carbines.

 

[five.five-six]

I have the bolt tools for M1 Garand/M14/M1A and M1/M2 Carbines.

I think I should shoot my garand Sunday.

 

[smoothy8500]

I did have to forward assist 2 clips first round to get it going

That's actually pretty common.

 

[five.five-six]

I was always told the general rule is to follow the reloading manual of bullet manufacture.
Hornady 150 grain FMJ's recommended OAL is 3.185


Also, what are you seeing on the casing where the extractor is making contact?

a look at the lyman's 50th sets the OAL for 150 JSP at 3.200" and that's what I did this time. I had 3 pierced primers. I switched from WLR's to wolf military LR. also, I changed shell horlers. the one I used earlier had been ground down in an effort years ago to push .308 shoulders, I marked that one up real good and used an unmolested shell holder this time

The ammo made 2,807.3 FPS with a STD DEV of 19.4 which was a little disconcerting considering I threw all the charges on an RCBS chargmaser. I was using cheep bullets which were +/- 1 grain so that might be it.

 

[Striker62]

If your just plinking for fun, not a biggie. Will want to dial it on if going for accuracy / score

If you have not pulled the bolt apart and replaced springs, do that too just because

 

[tacticalb]

I used to have the same problem as you. Replaced the entire ejector kit with a new set along with the ejector clip spring and problem was solved

 

[five.five-six]

If your just plinking for fun, not a biggie. Will want to dial it on if going for accuracy / score

If you have not pulled the bolt apart and replaced springs, do that too just because
.

Shooting I’ve had that silhouettes 40 yards away, who cares if you make it half inch bigger group. Those rounds cost me like $.30.


I would like to try it with high power shooting. the ME on it is 1, I suspect Te is probably a 1 as well. I bought 1K A Max’s $.25 a pill about 10 years ago. I’ve got a bunch of good powders too. I think I could make a really good round. I have an over 100 pieces of once fired matching brass. Probably more than 1 set if I get to sorting.

 

[smoothy8500]

a STD DEV of 19.4 which was a little disconcerting considering I threw all the charges on an RCBS chargmaser.

People get wrapped up about SD and it is a non-issue. Even at 600yds that number doesn't affect group size beyond the average shooter's ability to a hold a group at said distance.

As to the cause: A lot of SD variation could be associated with powder burn efficiency based on % of case capacity, or consistent neck tension. Even if you had premium bullets, perfectly annealed cases, and powder charge within 0.02 gr (using Prometheus Powder dispenser) you could still have SD in the high teens due to inefficient powder burn.

What's important is what the target shows.