Help: Springfield TRP Firing Pin Malfunction

[RipTownTech]

I have a Springfield TRP Operator 1911. 45 ACP, full rail. After about 2,000 rounds, I did a complete disassembly and deep cleaning, including removing the sights and bathing in a sonic tank. Everything went back together smoothly. The firing pin assembly has an issue. It seats perfectly against the back plate when assembled. When it is cycled, it sticks in the forward firing position and does not return to seat against the back plate. The causes the back plate to slide out and the pin to eject out of the tunnel.

-I inspected the tunnel, there are no obstructions.

-I replaced the firing pin assembly with a new Springfield genuine part.

-The pin assembly spring is the same on both ends, so it does not look as if there is a wrong way to insert it.

-Yes, the ejector is seated correctly (the back plate can't install if it isn't)

Pics attached:

The firing pin stroke works, I have a video but it doesn't look like I can add it here. I can depress it manually and it seats, it only hangs up when it is test cycled.

Pic #1) The original and new firing pin assemblies.

Pic #2) The pin seated against the back plate following assembly.

Pic #3) The pin not returning to proper seating after a test fire.

Pic #4) The pin stuck in the forward position after a test fire (it can be returned to ready by forcing it with a flat head screw driver.

I have several 1911s and this is the first time I have experienced this. Anyone have this experience and any suggestions on how to fix it?

 

[RipTownTech]

I have a Springfield TRP Operator 1911. 45 ACP, full rail. After about 2,000 rounds, I did a complete disassembly and deep cleaning, including removing the sights and bathing in a sonic tank. Everything went back together smoothly. The firing pin assembly has an issue. It seats perfectly against the back plate when assembled. When it is cycled, it sticks in the forward firing position and does not return to seat against the back plate. The causes the back plate to slide out and the pin to eject out of the tunnel.

-I inspected the tunnel, there are no obstructions.

-I replaced the firing pin assembly with a new Springfield genuine part.

-The pin assembly spring is the same on both ends, so it does not look as if there is a wrong way to insert it.

-Yes, the ejector is seated correctly (the back plate can't install if it isn't)

Pics attached:

The firing pin stroke works, I have a video but it doesn't look like I can add it here. I can depress it manually and it seats, it only hangs up when it is test cycled.

Pic #1) The original and new firing pin assemblies.

Pic #2) The pin seated against the back plate following assembly.

Pic #3) The pin not returning to proper seating after a test fire.

Pic #4) The pin stuck in the forward position after a test fire (it can be returned to ready by forcing it with a flat head screw driver.

I have several 1911s and this is the first time I have experienced this. Anyone have this experience and any suggestions on how to fix it?

Pic #2, looks like a post only allows 3 pics.

 

[john323]

Inspect the breach face for any damage or debris.

 

[RipTownTech]

Inspect the breach face for any damage or debris.

Inspected. No damage. No debris.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Can you make the firing pin get stuck by manually pushing it forward?

I would remove the rear plate and see if you can recreate it. Could be something as simple as a burr on the firing pin hole.

When you say this happens during cycling, do you mean just racking the slide causes this to happen?

 

[Darqhelmet]

Swap fire pins with a known good 1911 see if the problem follows the pin or the slide. That will give you a spot to focus on

 

[paintballdad]

Are you sure the firing pin stop (backplate) is installed correctly.

 

[paintballdad]

A properly installed firing pin stop should look like this.

 

[k02ak]

I have honestly never heard of this happening. Usually an unpopular opinion but did you put a bit of lube on the firing pin spring after you did a deep clean?

 

[Brandon Breeze]

A properly installed firing pin stop should look like this.

In photo #2 it looks to be correct, Photo #3 looks like it could be incorrectly installed

 

[RipTownTech]

Can you make the firing pin get stuck by manually pushing it forward?

I would remove the rear plate and see if you can recreate it. Could be something as simple as a burr on the firing pin hole.

When you say this happens during cycling, do you mean just racking the slide causes this to happen?

I can’t get it to stick by manually pushing it forward. Yes, by cycling I mean racking the slide. Sometimes it happens on the first rack, other times it may happen on the second or third time.

 

[RipTownTech]

Are you sure the firing pin stop (backplate) is installed correctly.

Yes.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

I can’t get it to stick by manually pushing it forward. Yes, by cycling I mean racking the slide. Sometimes it happens on the first rack, other times it may happen on the second or third time.

That is definitely strange as the firing pin shouldn't really have any force applied to it when racking the slide.

If it doesn't stick when manually pushing it forward, but when cycling I'm at a loss unfortunately.

 

[RipTownTech]

I have honestly never heard of this happening. Usually an unpopular opinion but did you put a bit of lube on the firing pin spring after you did a deep clean?

Yes. At first I did not because Springfield recommends no lube. But to just make certain, I sprayed it with some Rem dry lube.

 

[RipTownTech]

That is definitely strange as the firing pin shouldn't really have any force applied to it when racking the slide.

If it doesn't stick when manually pushing it forward, but when cycling I'm at a loss unfortunately.

It sticks in the forward position when I execute the dry fire as part of the cycle/function test. It doesn’t stick when racked, it must be dry fired to stick.

 

[k02ak]

Yes. At first I did not because Springfield recommends no lube. But to just make certain, I sprayed it with some Rem dry lube.

My only guess now is that something is out of spec

 

[paintballdad]

In photo #2 it looks to be correct, Photo #3 looks like it could be incorrectly installed

His photo on post #2 looks like it might be incorrect. Here is a photo of my TRP slide bottom view.

 

[mrbieler]

Firing pin spring tapered/small end should be towards the rear. Try a steel firing pin and a new spring. The spring should have a tapered end and that taper goes to the pins shoulder. If neither pin is tapered, they both could be out of spec/too weak. I haven't bought a Springfield in a while but they were using titanium 38/9mm pins with extra power springs for California's drop test. The firing pin stop should be a snug fit to the channel and extractor. It should not drop freely. It needs to be snug to capture the extractor and prevent it from moving back and forth and clocking. If the stop is able to feely slide down, it could be moving just enough to capture the pin when it's forward.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

It sticks in the forward position when I execute the dry fire as part of the cycle/function test. It doesn’t stick when racked, it must be dry fired to stick.

That makes more sense, but still odd that it won't happen when manually pushing it forward.

I would manually push it forward until you find what is causing it. I would lean towards a burr somewhere. Make sure the firing pin channel is dry as a bone too, no lube needed in there.

 

[RipTownTech]

That is definitely strange as the firing pin shouldn't really have any force applied to it when racking the slide.

If it doesn't stick when manually pushing it forward, but when cycling I'm at

Firing pin spring tapered/small end should be towards the rear. Try a steel firing pin and a new spring. The spring should have a tapered end and that taper goes to the pins shoulder. If neither pin is tapered, they both could be out of spec/too weak. I haven't bought a Springfield in a while but they were using titanium 38/9mm pins with extra power springs for California's drop test. The firing pin stop should be a snug fit to the channel and extractor. It should not drop freely. It needs to be snug to capture the extractor and prevent it from moving back and forth and clocking. If the stop is able to feely slide down, it could be moving just enough to capture the pin when it's forward.

they are titanium, there is no taper.