Question Debating Getting Into Reloading....

[Dooder]

Your cartridge choice is good to start loading. Those bigger bullets are easier to load than them little 55gr 22cals haaha. I load a lot of M80 and M2 ball spec ammo. It performs better than factory options and is 1/2 the cost. 12ga is viable depending on what you're used to shooting. I load an STS clone that costs the same as the cheap steel base blaster stuff. The journey is cool. Learn a lot, can make all the ammo you wish to make, can make ammo that can't be bought.

 

[mindwreck]

@mindwreck, you sound like an true expert. As for where in San Diego, I'm out in the wilds of east county, lot's of land and gophers and endless work..... ;-).

I understand the whole hobby and car thing, I was involved for quite a while with private planes and eBay was a salvation, one of the happiest days of my life is when I found a replacement magneto for my N2S-5..... Wife said I was happier than when we got married.... I made the mistake of saying "duh.....", I paid for that for a LONG time.

Back to reloading, I'm still kicking the tires on this and I need to do some reading first. However, would it be OK if I were to pick your brain from time to time as I progress? Also, thanks very much for your kind offer, that was really generous!

Oh yeah. the East County.. i was just in Ramona this past week. Brawley, last week. Borrego few months ago. I can guarantee if its hot, I'm getting sent out to the desert...

Anyways, I wouldn't call myself an expert. I just inquisitive and knowledge sponge from all points of views and resources.. DM me up anytime.

 

[DIYPSCM]

Just curious... I just bought 1k rounds of Maxxtech 124g brass case 9mm for .20/ round from Outdoorlimited.com... free shipping no tax. Assuming you own the brass, what would it cost to reload the same?

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 16735]

I'm reloading polymer coated 147gr for .08 per bullet, 2 cents titegroup powder and .05 magtech primers. You save more in precision rifle cartridges where factory ammo is 2.00 a shot though

 

[USMC06RET]

Oh yeah. the East County.. i was just in Ramona this past week. Brawley, last week. Borrego few months ago. I can guarantee if its hot, I'm getting sent out to the desert...

Anyways, I wouldn't call myself an expert. I just inquisitive and knowledge sponge from all points of views and resources.. DM me up anytime.

Yeah, not quite that far out but it does get ungodly hot here! And thanks for your offer of experience and expertise!

 

[AR15barrels]

Thanks, I have thought about that. I had an FFL03 many years ago and let it lapse. Could be time to revisit that. Although, my biggest concern involves lack of availability not cost.

So component availability runs right behind ammo availability.
When ammo is hard to get, so are components like the primers, powder and bullets.
The key is to stock up when components (or ammo) is cheap to cover the times when it's hard to get or more expensive.
If you have the components on hand, it's only a matter of you doing the reloading to make yourself some ammo.

When the shelves run dry of ammo, the primers and powder are right behind the ammo because all the people that reload suck up all the components when ammo runs dry.
So if you don't already HAVE your components before an ammo shortage, do not bet on being able to get them during an ammo shortage.

 

[bonesurf]

what @AR15barrels said. The one component that I haven’t really seen get stupid expensive at some point is projectiles. Seems like you can always find those

 

[Dvrjon]

I am thinking about trying my hand at reloading, mostly .308, .30-06, .45 & 12 ga.

You’re talking about dating three different women with common traits, but each of whom has their own idiosyncrasies and demands. No one act will please them all. I’d suggest you commit to .45 to start.

-Shotshell reloading takes a press completely different from rifle and handgun. Powders, projectiles (shot/slugs), casings are different from rifle/handgun.

-Rifle cartridges are normally necked down which causes the cases to fire form and stretch when fired. This requires trimming of the cases to specified length before reloading. The cases are longer and require hand lubing to slide through dies. This is all time suck and often a PITA.

-Handgun cartridges are mostly straight walled cases which are headspaced off the case mouth. They don’t usually stretch when fired, so they seldom need trimming. Since they are shorter, they don’t require individual lubing.

So, the handgun process is simpler and easy to change between cartridges (.45 to 9mm) simply by changing out a die set and adjusting or changing powder loads and primers. Pick carefully, and the same powder in a different loading can be used for both.
////////
Equipment:

Most folks advise using a single-stage press to start. I don’t. Single stages are great for making precision ammunition because you can precisely control every grain of powder and bullet alignment.

When I started reloading in the 80’s, I wanted volume with accuracy and I was broke. I started with a Lee Progressive 1000 in 9mm but used it as a single stage (one round at a time) until I was familiar with the process and had worked out the operation. I incorporated quality control measures (pulling a charged case to confirm consistent powder drops, hand checking primer seating, weighing completed rounds looking for variations which could indicate a double charge, etc.). Then, I built test rounds to get the best accuracy for a specific gun. Finally, I went to a production phase where I could turn out volume with speed and some level of precision.

I still have and use that press.

As always, YM (and opinions) MV.

Best.

 

[USMC06RET]

You’re talking about dating three different women with common traits, but each of whom has their own idiosyncrasies and demands. No one act will please them all. I’d suggest you commit to .45 to start.

-Shotshell reloading takes a press completely different from rifle and handgun. Powders, projectiles (shot/slugs), casings are different from rifle/handgun.

-Rifle cartridges are normally necked down which causes the cases to fire form and stretch when fired. This requires trimming of the cases to specified length before reloading. The cases are longer and require hand lubing to slide through dies. This is all time suck and often a PITA.

-Handgun cartridges are mostly straight walled cases which are headspaced off the case mouth. They don’t usually stretch when fired, so they seldom need trimming. Since they are shorter, they don’t require individual lubing.

So, the handgun process is simpler and easy to change between cartridges (.45 to 9mm) simply by changing out a die set and adjusting or changing powder loads and primers. Pick carefully, and the same powder in a different loading can be used for both.
////////
Equipment:

Most folks advise using a single-stage press to start. I don’t. Single stages are great for making precision ammunition because you can precisely control every grain of powder and bullet alignment.

When I started reloading in the 80’s, I wanted volume with accuracy and I was broke. I started with a Lee Progressive 1000 in 9mm but used it as a single stage (one round at a time) until I was familiar with the process and had worked out the operation. I incorporated quality control measures (pulling a charged case to confirm consistent powder drops, hand checking primer seating, weighing completed rounds looking for variations which could indicate a double charge, etc.). Then, I built test rounds to get the best accuracy for a specific gun. Finally, I went to a production phase where I could turn out volume with speed and some level of precision.

I still have and use that press.

As always, YM (and opinions) MV.

Best.

A lot of good info in your post, thanks for taking the time to share it!

 

[Dvrjon]

If you just want to pump out range ammo, consider instead getting your FFL03... you can have for example 9mm shipped to your door for 20 cents a round, no shipping, tax or 11%fee. The FFL03 all in will cost you about $125.

The FFL-03 will cost $30 and be good for 3 years. You also need the California COE (Certificate of Eligibility…background check) which will run around $120 for state fees, fingerprint services, etc. The COE is good for only one year and renewal is $22/year.

So, all in for the FFL-03 + COE will run around $150.

 

[Dvrjon]

A lot of good info in your post, thanks for taking the time to share it!

The Internet wasn’t running back then (although there was some Usenet activity), so we learned from books and old farts at the range. I still have my library

 

[USMC06RET]

what @AR15barrels said. The one component that I haven’t really seen get stupid expensive at some point is projectiles. Seems like you can always find those

There is a lot to consider when doing an ROI analysis with regard to reloading and obtaining ammunition during a worst case civil crisis.

 

[DIYPSCM]

The FFL-03 will cost $30 and be good for 3 years. You also need the California COE (Certificate of Eligibility…background check) which will run around $120 for state fees, fingerprint services, etc. The COE is good for only one year and renewal is $22/year.

So, all in for the FFL-03 + COE will run around $150.

LOL, ok.... my bad.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

I am thinking about trying my hand at reloading, mostly .308, .30-06, .45 & 12 ga. I read the introductory blurb on this site about reloading and now I am looking for recommendations for some beginner's reading material, books, articles, etc. that can help me evaluate and or get started with the process.

Thanks in advance.

Reloading can definitely be fun! And on the larger rifle calibers, or any specialized load or caliber it can still make sense to reload (financially).

Components have absolutely skyrocketed over the past few years and in many cases it will cost less to simply buy ammo off the shelf.

#1 Rule when you hit the range is to always pick up all of your brass, and if the range lets you see if you can grab more (always ask).

These days, you can likely find loadings "formulas" for just about anything right here on the good ol interwebs. That said I still heavily use my Lyman Reloading Handbook (48th Edition) for quick reference.

Other than that, check out some youtube videos about presses and see which way you want to go. I have the Dillon RL-550B and have been using it for around 20 years. I mostly wanted to reload for plinking ammo, so it made sense for me to utilize a multi stage press to make ammo a bit quicker than say a single stage press, where you might want to develop your own match grade load and measure out every grain of powder.

 

[AR15barrels]

There is a lot to consider when doing an ROI analysis with regard to reloading and obtaining ammunition during a worst case civil crisis.

The reason to reload is to be able to make custom ammo that works better in your specific guns.

It can also be less expensive, but you have to buy compnents in large quantities when they are inexpensive to beat the price of cheap factory ammo and you have to load 10's of thousands of rounds to amortize the reloading equipment costs.
If you are not going to shoot 50,000 to 100,000+ rounds in your lifetime and you are happy with the accuracy that you get from factory ammo, then you would probably be better to stock up on ammo so you have enough to ride out a 5-10 year time where ammo is hard to get or too expensive.
If you are not happy with the accuracy you get with factory ammo, then your only option is to reload your own so you can tune the load to your specific gun.

Powder and primers require hazmat shipping that adds $35 to $50 to each order.
To better amortize that, buy powder in 8lb jugs and order 6 at a time to max out a hazmat tag from powder valley or other online seller.
Same thing with primers. Order 50,000 primers to max out a hazmat tag.

Bullets are heavy but have no hazmat so you can order those 5,000 to maybe 20,000 at a time to get the best landed price.
Do NOT expect to be able to go to a local reloading store and buy a pound of powder and a couple 100 count boxes of bullets and expect to get anywhere close to the cost of factory ammo.

You will spend more than factory ammo buying components in small quantities.

I invested heavily into reloading components 25ish years ago and I am still shooting my way through my stash.
I load 38spl or 9mm with cast lead bullets for $35 per 1000.
I load 9mm using plated bullets for $42 per 1000.
I can load 55gr ball 223 for about $75 per 1000.
I can load 147gr ball 308 or 30-06 for about $90 per 1000.
The problem is that these are 1990's to early 2000's dollars and I can't replace my components for even triple what I have into them.
So when I go shooting, I grin at how my investments are paying off, but dread the day I have to re-supply.

 

[Gunther]

I have 8K Winchester small rifle primers for sale. Stored in the house. okdo@sbcglobal.net

 

[ikeo1]

The reason to reload is to be able to make custom ammo that works better in your specific guns.

It can also be less expensive, but you have to buy compnents in large quantities when they are inexpensive to beat the price of cheap factory ammo and you have to load 10's of thousands of rounds to amortize the reloading equipment costs.
If you are not going to shoot 50,000 to 100,000+ rounds in your lifetime and you are happy with the accuracy that you get from factory ammo, then you would probably be better to stock up on ammo so you have enough to ride out a 5-10 year time where ammo is hard to get or too expensive.
If you are not happy with the accuracy you get with factory ammo, then your only option is to reload your own so you can tune the load to your specific gun.

Powder and primers require hazmat shipping that adds $35 to $50 to each order.
To better amortize that, buy powder in 8lb jugs and order 6 at a time to max out a hazmat tag from powder valley or other online seller.
Same thing with primers. Order 50,000 primers to max out a hazmat tag.

Bullets are heavy but have no hazmat so you can order those 5,000 to maybe 20,000 at a time to get the best landed price.
Do NOT expect to be able to go to a local reloading store and buy a pound of powder and a couple 100 count boxes of bullets and expect to get anywhere close to the cost of factory ammo.

You will spend more than factory ammo buying components in small quantities.

I invested heavily into reloading components 25ish years ago and I am still shooting my way through my stash.
I load 38spl or 9mm with cast lead bullets for $35 per 1000.
I load 9mm using plated bullets for $42 per 1000.
I can load 55gr ball 223 for about $75 per 1000.
I can load 147gr ball 308 or 30-06 for about $90 per 1000.
The problem is that these are 1990's to early 2000's dollars and I can't replace my components for even triple what I have into them.
So when I go shooting, I grin at how my investments are paying off, but dread the day I have to re-supply.

Lots to digest but all good info here.

I prefer progressive from the get go and only get a press if you’re a high round count kinda guy, unless you just want another hobby.

It took 6 months to get my setup dialed and the ROI was 3 years or 50,000 rounds. I just hit that recently so it’s now in the green for 9mm. If you start now for it it takes longer. My cpr is approx $.18 vs the $.26 ish now but I’ve had my press since Covid when prices were $.34-.45

Aside from the $ is the time. But now that I have my process I can crank out loads pretty quickly

 

[Dvrjon]

Lots to digest but all good info here.

I prefer progressive from the get go and only get a press if you’re a high round count kinda guy, unless you just want another hobby.

It took 6 months to get my setup dialed and the ROI was 3 years or 50,000 rounds. I just hit that recently so it’s now in the green for 9mm. If you start now for it it takes longer. My cpr is approx $.18 vs the $.26 ish now but I’ve had my press since Covid when prices were $.34-.45

Aside from the $ is the time. But now that I have my process I can crank out loads pretty quickly

One thing quickly passed over in your ROI experience is you SHOT 50,000 rounds. In itself, that is a stack of time. To that add time spent prepping, reloading, transit to shoot and return, cleanup and reset. Along with the waiting for stages to fire, socialization, RO stuff, etc., your ROI required a huge time suck beyond pulling a lever for a couple of hours. But just pulling the trigger was weeks of your time.

But that’s because you committed to shooting as an avocation (I suspect you were all-in from the jump) and the reloading was simply a means to support that commitment. The casual reloader isn’t gonna blast ~16k/yr. (They also aren’t going to drop the cash you did to establish that sweet set-up). Still, the time to shoot is a huge opportunity cost to the ROI which is traded to recoup the financial costs.

 

[USMC06RET]

One thing quickly passed over in your ROI experience is you SHOT 50,000 rounds. In itself, that is a stack of time. To that add time spent prepping, reloading, transit to shoot and return, cleanup and reset. Along with the waiting for stages to fire, socialization, RO stuff, etc., your ROI required a huge time suck beyond pulling a lever for a couple of hours. But just pulling the trigger was weeks of your time.

But that’s because you committed to shooting as an avocation (I suspect you were all-in from the jump) and the reloading was simply a means to support that commitment. The casual reloader isn’t gonna blast ~16k/yr. (They also aren’t going to drop the cash you did to establish that sweet set-up). Still, the time to shoot is a huge opportunity cost to the ROI which is traded to recoup the financial costs.

Some people go fishing, some chase skirts (formerly guilty), some drink beer and others shoot and reload for relaxation.

 

[Dvrjon]

Some people go fishing, some chase skirts (formerly guilty), some drink beer and others shoot and reload for relaxation.

True (although I've never understood fishing). But I was, at one time able to balance the beer drinking with skirt chasing and shooting. Two daughters and 5 GKs later, my time suck activities have changed but the ROI has improved.