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bumping shoulder on fired form brass

ssaba65

⚠️ New Member | No Deposits ☢️
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I got some fired form brass and Id like to try to method . but I have tikka t3x bolt and took out firing pin and bolt doesnt close like rifle in video . do I need to punch out the roll pin and fully remove part of bolt like the spring and plunger and ejetor ?
 
Just sharing my experience…

Here’s my recipe that I follow for my 6.5 that might work for your caliber too. Powder H4350. Hornady 140gr eld match 41.5 grains. Seat the bullet .020 off of jam. Bump the shoulder back .002 and send it. Get good brass ,lapua, alpha. Watch Erik Cortina, "don't chase the lands " video. Follow these steps, or similar for your caliber, and you can’t go wrong. And to find the headspace for your rifle, take the firing pin out with a fired case, bullet inserted, soft close, and measure. Bump the shoulder .002 from there, and no more.
 
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I guess I can do that way .. but Im treating this as every chamber is slightly different and would like to try just for experiment .
 
I guess I can do that way .. but Im treating this as every chamber is slightly different and would like to try just for experiment .
If it's fire formed to that chamber then it's already customized to that chamber, you just want to bump it back 2 thou so it fits again. If you have multiple guns you should keep the brass separate.
 
Just sharing my experience…

Here’s my recipe that I follow for my 6.5 that might work for your caliber too. Powder H4350. Hornady 140gr eld match 41.5 grains. Seat the bullet .020 off of jam. Bump the shoulder back .002 and send it. Get good brass ,lapua, alpha. Watch Erik Cortina, "don't chase the lands " video. Follow these steps, or similar for your caliber, and you can’t go wrong. And to find the headspace for your rifle, take the firing pin out with a fired case, bullet inserted, soft close, and measure. Bump the shoulder .002 from there, and no more.
Yea , i took the firing pin out , but even with new brass , it doesn't close smooth . Im thinking due to ejector spring and plunger inside of the bolt . Only way to tell is to remove and re try .
 
If it's fire formed to that chamber then it's already customized to that chamber, you just want to bump it back 2 thou so it fits again. If you have multiple guns you should keep the brass separate.
Yea thats what I did . But I guess I just wanted to confirm on the rifle ..but there bit if hiccup , which im trying to sort out
 
Im not saying bolt doesn't close . It closes with bit of mechanical feel to it . And this is even new brass . I think because internal bolt parts difference . Ill remove extractor and plunger and try it and follow up .
 
Im not saying bolt doesn't close . It closes with bit of mechanical feel to it . And this is even new brass . I think because internal bolt parts difference . Ill remove extractor and plunger and try it and follow up .

If it feels the same as new brass then you are done, load it up and shoot it.
 
Make sense tho . From new brass - Fire formed only grew .002 and that reading was after anneling . Bump in back .002 n call it day is keep in it simple .
 

I got some fired form brass and Id like to try to method . but I have tikka t3x bolt and took out firing pin and bolt doesnt close like rifle in video . do I need to punch out the roll pin and fully remove part of bolt like the spring and plunger and ejetor ?
It's standard practice to remove the striker and the ejector so neither of those will effect your FEEL when you are gauging bolt tightness in the action on a sized case.
Spring loaded extractors can stay as long as you snap the case under the extractor before chambering so you don't feel the extractor spring being pushed back.
 
Is this a new rifle? Have you checked the chamber with a bore scope for tooling marks? If you chamber a new factory round, DON't fire it, and then extract it, does it have galling marks on brass? I had 2 new barrels that left galling marks on non fired brass from tight chambers and tooling marks. Brush Research sells brushes to hone your chamber. Just be very careful not over hone your chamber. You can't replace material once you take it off. I just honed with oil, and a drill. I only honed and stopped when there was very slight drag and no more galling, figuring using the rifle would smooth out the rest.
 
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