18+ Content Warning

By clicking Enter, you confirm you are 18 years of age or older and agree to comply with all applicable local, state, and federal laws.

Notice: Any content or member activity - including anything you may buy, sell, transfer, or discuss - must comply with current and upcoming laws.

Members are encouraged to stay informed: California Firearm Laws: 2026 Outlook & 2025 Recap . Responsibility for compliance rests solely with the individual member.

caguns.net

Welcome to CAguns.net!
Join our growing community where you can ask questions, share knowledge, or browse our classifieds section.

Sign up for a free account today and unlock full access! Once registered, you can search, post, and take advantage of exclusive features unavailable to guests.

A note on why more of the site now requires an account: automated scrapers and AI systems have been crawling our forums and classifieds at a scale. Requiring sign-in for those sections is the most effective tool we have. It takes a minute to register, it's free, and it keeps what happens here between actual members.

New to California gun ownership or trying to keep up with the changing laws? Check out our sister site CA2A.com — free courses, plain-English legal updates, and step-by-step guides built for California owners.

Advanced features are available only to registered members. Register today!

best method, parts, equipment, etc... for noise

brokehands

⚠️ New Member | No Deposits ☢️
Messages
10
thanks in advance for replies.

well... what can i stick on an ar15 (ddm4v7) to "silence/soften" the bang, iF i have to fire this inside my home.

will i potentially lose my hearing after this?
 
🤣Since you said “silence/soften”; the can would make sense.

However, Cali wise, if you are trying to push the sound away from you in your close quarter hallways, a blast diverter, surefire warden either direct thread, or quick attach/detach via ratcheting system. The quick detach version will require their muzzle brake or flash hider which needs to be timed with shims and then torqued between 20-30 FOOT lbs (time to bring out the torque wrench for working on your car) to clock it correctly. Takes a little time to find the sweet spot; they include instructions for the right combo of shims for clocking. Rocksett recommended by surefire for duty or heavy use; not necessary for plinking or hunting purposes.

Fortis manufacturing also makes a gen 2 fast attach/detach style that uses a tri-lug system on top of a muzzle brake; they cost slightly less than surefire. The material they use for it is 4140 steel. They have an gen 1 and gen 2; different aesthetics and different QD system. Installing the muzzle device was easy since you could just put a socket to it and clock against a crush washer. Gen 1 is almost like the surefire quick detach with a lever. The gen 2 control shield is good for if your handguard is ever so slightly longer than the barrel and you can’t reach your finger in there for the gen 1; you can just turn the control shield at the tip to detach or attach via tri-lug. An AR-pistol in a similar set up is a good example. The gen 2 control shield has 2 holes (1 on each side venting 45 degree left and right upwards), so if you have a light, it will ding into the aluminum from the blast.
 
Last edited:
thanks in advance for replies.

well... what can i stick on an ar15 (ddm4v7) to "silence/soften" the bang, iF i have to fire this inside my home.

will i potentially lose my hearing after this?
ever thought of having a set of electronic hearing protection ready to go with lithium batteries so they don’t leak/discharge like alkaline batteries. You can just leave the batteries in and when it’s go time you put them on; given that you have the chance of putting them on. Don’t worry, try hunting quail without hearing protection, you get use to it because the electronic hearing protection doesn’t allow you to hear the assembly and alarm calls; just take it off much easier 🤣
 
Last edited:
+1 electronic hearing protection. It amplifies regular sounds while protecting your hearing. I'm not expecting to get into a gun battle inside my home with an AR-15, but I would rather have the option than not.
Edit: I have these and they work pretty well.
 
I'd love a suppressor, but Excremento thinks like they watched too many movies from the 1940's when only gangsters were shown using them.

That's the backwards, paranoia thinking those democrats hold there. They don't value hearing damage either. Turns out they are the ones that are deaf.
 
Get a suppressor. What do you plan on shooting inside your house with a full size rifle?
"home defense" ... live in a 2000 square footer.

not sure if a another sidearm is more practical. like a glock 17. i am not rich, but i ain't concerned with how much i will be dishing out for this. 1st and LAST rifle i will have.

suppressors are not legal? but.... this thing is NEVER leaving my home... so...

my knowledge of firearms is limited. very limited... i am ok with a permanent attachment.
 
Last edited:
Not what you want to hear but, you’d be better off investing money into motion sensor lights outside your home, window locks, cameras, and alarm, maybe even a dog to discourage someone from breaking in.
For those of us living in California, electronic hearing protection is your best option.
 
Last edited:
🤣Since you said “silence/soften”; the can would make sense.

However, Cali wise, if you are trying to push the sound away from you in your close quarter hallways, a blast diverter, surefire warden either direct thread, or quick attach/detach via ratcheting system. The quick detach version will require their muzzle brake or flash hider which needs to be timed with shims and then torqued between 20-30 FOOT lbs (time to bring out the torque wrench for working on your car) to clock it correctly. Takes a little time to find the sweet spot; they include instructions for the right combo of shims for clocking. Rocksett recommended by surefire for duty or heavy use; not necessary for plinking or hunting purposes.

Fortis manufacturing also makes a gen 2 fast attach/detach style that uses a tri-lug system on top of a muzzle brake; they cost slightly less than surefire. The material they use for it is 4140 steel. They have an gen 1 and gen 2; different aesthetics and different QD system. Installing the muzzle device was easy since you could just put a socket to it and clock against a crush washer. Gen 1 is almost like the surefire quick detach with a lever. The gen 2 control shield is good for if your handguard is ever so slightly longer than the barrel and you can’t reach your finger in there for the gen 1; you can just turn the control shield at the tip to detach or attach via tri-lug. An AR-pistol in a similar set up is a good example. The gen 2 control shield has 2 holes (1 on each side venting 45 degree left and right upwards), so if you have a light, it will ding into the aluminum from the blast.

We make a muzzle brake / blast director combo that works really well for pushing the concussive blast downrange. Works great for indoor ranges, or covered outdoor ranges, or just in general when people are standing next to you. But, not sure how it would work in a 10 foot long hallway with 8 foot ceilings. https://www.sparrowdynamics.com/Blast-Director-Muzzle-Brake-Shroud-p/bd-15-blk.htm

A lot of people don't tend to consider the weight on these blast forwarders. Some are pretty heavy, but ours is about half the weight of the Warden, and less than half the price. The brake by itself does an awesome job of reducing recoil and also muzzle rise. When you screw the shroud on, our unique design still reduces some recoil, and all the muzzle rise (unlike others that eliminate the benefit of the brake as soon as the shroud is installed). Also, both the Fortis and the Warden, as well as most others, don't have the shroud go past the end of the brake far enough to focus the blast forward. They only really block the side ports of the brake, and don't do much for what comes out the end.
 
"I accidentally my ar15 (ddm4v7) in a building, will i potentially lose my hearing after this?"

Firing an AR15 or other rifle caliber firearm in a building with no ear pro will momentarily deafen you and be extremely unpleasant and disorienting unless you are pretty desensitized to it, especially if the gun has a loud muzzle device like a brake.

This will definitely cause hearing damage, but it will take prolonged exposure to become noticeable, ask anyone in the military what happens from exposure to gunfire.

Suppressors (illegal in CA, federal offense w/o paperwork as well) mitigate this but do not make a 5.56 gun "hearing safe" rather they take the experience of shooting without ear pro from distractedly painful to unpleasant but manageable.

There are other devices that are marketed as reducing sound, these make almost no difference in sound at the shooter's ear and mostly reduce the effects of concussion when used on rifles. (Witt SME, blast diverters, linear comps)

If you have to fire it inside your home and the cops show up, they'll take your gun and all the illegal 💩 you did to it, especially if someone got shot.

This is why people recommend either a pistol or a pistol caliber carbine for "home defense" over a rifle, and to keep it legal, not mix and match legal and illegal stuff.

My experience has been that a 9mm pistol caliber carbine with a 16" barrel and linear compensator is just about shootable without ear pro for low round counts with no disorientation and effects on hearing just short of deafening. This still causes pain in the eardrums which is a sign of hearing loss being incurred but does not compare to indoor 5.56 without ear pro.
 
not sure if a another sidearm is more practical. like a glock 17. i am not rich

Then the DDM4 is not your gun, if you don't have the cash to spare for a very expensive normal AR15, get a S&W Shield and learn how to use it, or a Ruger PC Carbine/other pcc type gun if you plan to shoot the gun for like 10 rounds then throw it in the closet.


REALIABLE cheap guns will be just as good as expensive ones if your use case is shooting less than a couple hundred rounds per year.
 
Last edited:
My AR rifles all have linear compensators. That's about all you can do in California.

Probably the most effective one I have is the old Levang. That one has six individual chambers to split up the gas and send it out six small vents before the bullet exits. That works very well outside where you don't have a lot of reflections.
 
after this post, I think I might install a wall mount style headset hanger instead of laying it on top of a flat surface. I am thinking of mounting it on my desk or night stand.

Still deciding on drill method or stick on method 🤣; I think I am leaning towards drill on mount for long term usage. Just need to pull out the measuring tape, drill gun, and bubble level after that. 🥸



Amazon special ones I see that are on the nicer side
This first one has some wood accents which look nice. Kind of a wood and metal guy.

IMG_5076.png
 
What took me in getting severe tinnitus and some hearing loss: numerous 60mm, 81mm, 120mm mortar(inside strykers as well) rounds, and firing mortar in-between 2 abrams with an apache less than 100 meters above and back firing all their loads without/ misplacement/ loss of 3M earplugs; AND firing M9, M4, M16, M249, M240, M2 Browning, M203/ MK19, Javelins, AT-4s without/ misplacement/ loss of earplugs.

So 1 HD situation ain't going to give you hearing loss.
 
An electrified fence is always effective.

I like the way you think ..

But realistically , I went the 'Light um up ' approach
To go with my regular nighttime front porch and driveway lights
[ large corner lot ] . I have Good , Bright solar lights on every side of house , extra on garage pointing at vehicles. 2 more on 8 ft. Poles along fence on side st .
Another in back yard on shed along with decorative ground lighting
Think overlapping field of Light ( Fire ).........
No need for night vision at my place
Oh yes,,,, And a 110 lb. Belgian mix , yard dog.....
Lastly 4 cameras and the 'warning signs ' out front and side st.

Never a problem now ,,,,,, Even the recycle bin pickers stay away !!
Spent a few $$$$ ,,, Yes .. But the piece of mind is worth it ..
 
Makes it harder for the kick door. If you wanted to make it more sturdy; you could also do one up top and one on bottom for total of 3 for the ones that want to work the pry. At least 3-1/2 inch long construction rated torx screws are recommended to get into the studs. I would also upgrade to a nicer security strike plate with those same screws or just use those screws in your current strike plate (upgrade to a security strike plate is better). Those screws for standard plates are only about 3/8 inch long screws that will brake the trim off the doorway easily when it’s kicked. If you can, also shoot those same screws into the hinge side of the door into the wall if they want to work the hinge side; 2-1/2 construction rated torx screws should be enough for hinge going into door as not that much material to bite. Look up videos of the methods fire fighters use to get through a door; helped me understand a lot more after having my back door kicked down in a burglary (luckily no guns were taken).


Cheaper on Amazon for $18 instead of msrp of $31.


I also chopped dowels for the windows for the ones that want to pry windows. If you have experience with window applications they also make films for ones that want to work the glass; addition of silicone holds it better under stress. There is nicer windows on the market for rioters and marauders but that means you need to replace your windows.


Also one of these can help your dead bolt from failing and flying out. prime line door reinforcment.

 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom