Be Careful With Factory Optic Plate Screws!

[Wolkenflieger]

Just got a BNIB P-10 C Ported (PPT) and it's optic-ready with a cover plate from the factory. The factory Torx screws holding the plate were SUPER tight, and it looks like CZ used super strong Vibra-Tite VC-3 threadlocker or similar from the look of the compound.

My first attempts weren't successful trying to loosen the screws so I whipped out the handy Ryobi cordless heat gun. Didn't get it too hot, just enough to melt the threadlocker a bit.

Basically, using heat is the best bet versus stripping the screws.

I carefully loosened both Torx screws and installed the HoloSun (SCS-P10-GR), which doesn't require a separate optic plate and cowitnesses nicely with the P-10 C's sights.

Brightness on this item is automagic with solar, a first for me. Reviews have generally been good but for very dark areas. There's also a 30-minute brightness override for extra vis when needed. It's multi-reticle but I'll probably stick with the 2 MOA dot.

The cuts on the optic do not match the gun, but I'm okay with it. Not even sure the cuts are supposed to match this gun specifically even though P-10 is in the name of the optic.

This optic does cowitness by-design. Can't wait to shoot it with some 124gr Sellier & Bellot ammo.

 

[Plenty_Pack_556]

That's a very common and old issue from Holosun screws btw.

 

[No_glonks]

Serations match non ported p-10c perfectly

 

[Wolkenflieger]

That's a very common and old issue from Holosun screws btw.

These were CZ screws on a factory optic cover plate. So tight!

 

[Wolkenflieger]

Serations match non ported p-10c perfectly

Ah so that's it! Thanks for dispelling the mystery.

 

[Diabolus]

I have Holosun's on my HK that are made for it, great fit and like them a lot. The screws that come with Holosun are absolute garbage. Don't even try to make them work, they are awful.

I bought mounting screws from here and they are outstanding: https://www.battlewerx.com/

 

[ptmn2]

As an LEO armorer, a lot of weapons have to be serviced. I found that using a AA battery operated soldering iron is the fastest and easiest way to deactivate thread locker

 

[ptmn2]

I have Holosun's on my HK that are made for it, great fit and like them a lot. The screws that come with Holosun are absolute garbage. Don't even try to make them work, they are awful.

I bought mounting screws from here and they are outstanding: https://www.battlewerx.com/

Great minds think alike. I also use Battlewerx screws. I buy them to replace the soft factory Leupold Deltapoint Pro screws. Very happy with Battlewerx

 

[Wolkenflieger]

As an LEO armorer, a lot of weapons have to be serviced. I found that using a AA battery operated soldering iron is the fastest and easiest way to deactivate thread locker

Great tip!

 

[Wolkenflieger]

I have Holosun's on my HK that are made for it, great fit and like them a lot. The screws that come with Holosun are absolute garbage. Don't even try to make them work, they are awful.

I bought mounting screws from here and they are outstanding: https://www.battlewerx.com/

Great tip, thanks! The biggest issue I find is knowing what diameter, length, and thread pitch to get for mounting screws.

 

[ShootFirstFirster]

If the vibra tite vc3 was applied correctly it should not require heat for removal. Its not a thread locker in the same fashion as the usual loctite products. Applied to the faster and allowed to fully cure prior to installation with proper torque it shouldn't require much more than the original torque setting or heat for that matter to remove. Might be something else.

 

[No_glonks]

I have Holosun's on my HK that are made for it, great fit and like them a lot. The screws that come with Holosun are absolute garbage. Don't even try to make them work, they are awful.

I bought mounting screws from here and they are outstanding: https://www.battlewerx.com/

Came to recommend battlewerx screws

 

[No_glonks]

Great tip, thanks! The biggest issue I find is knowing what diameter, length, and thread pitch to get for mounting screws.

M3x8mm for P-10C OR direct mount SCS

 

[Wolkenflieger]

M3x8mm for P-10C OR direct mount SCS

Thank you!

 

[Wolkenflieger]

As an LEO armorer, a lot of weapons have to be serviced. I found that using a AA battery operated soldering iron is the fastest and easiest way to deactivate thread locker

The Fanttik T1 Max cordless soldering iron looks like a winner. $60 online. Thanks again for the tip.

 

[joefrank64k]

If the vibra tite vc3 was applied correctly it should not require heat for removal. Its not a thread locker in the same fashion as the usual loctite products. Applied to the faster and allowed to fully cure prior to installation with proper torque it shouldn't require much more than the original torque setting or heat for that matter to remove. Might be something else.

Wanted to say this as well.

VC-3 is meant to be applied and air-cured *before* install. I like it because I can pre-apply to spare screws (e.g. for the range bag). AFAIK once applied it doesn’t ‘expire’.

It’s also reusable. You don’t have to reapply. You can loosen, retorque, etc. Cool stuff.

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate

www.vibra-tite.com

 

[Wolkenflieger]

Maybe it was Red Loctite? Not sure why CZ would use Red Loctite on cover plate screws though!

 

[Gawernator]

As an LEO armorer, a lot of weapons have to be serviced. I found that using a AA battery operated soldering iron is the fastest and easiest way to deactivate thread locker

Why would you do that instead of a heat gun?

 

[Wolkenflieger]

Why would you do that instead of a heat gun?

My guess is that the iron heats the screw specifically and melts the threadlocker from inside out, versus a more diffuse heat approach. It's very targeted and specific.

There may also be reasons why one wouldn't want diffuse heat on the optic plate or slide, though being a gun it seems fine as guns get hot from shooting.

I guess if I needed to solder anything it'd be good for that too.

 

[Gawernator]

My guess is that the iron heats the screw specifically and melts the threadlocker from inside out, versus a more diffuse heat approach. It's very targeted and specific.

There may also be reasons why one wouldn't want diffuse heat on the optic plate or slide, though being a gun it seems fine as guns get hot from shooting.

I guess if I needed to solder anything it'd be good for that too.

After rapid fire a few days ago my handgun was smoking hot, almost burn you to the touch hot