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Bay Area gunsmith for PDP mag disconnect removal?

aema15

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CAguns Supporter
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Any recs? I thought I'd be indifferent to the mag disconnect, but the dry fire and field strip workflow is really annoying. I live in the East Bay, but I'll go out as far as Livermore or South Bay
 
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I know this isn’t an answer to your question since I’m not from your area, so feel free to ignore, but it is fairly doable to remove it yourself. It just takes some preparation and patience. I think there is a thread you can search for on this forum, but there’s also other threads on reddit that go over what worked for others

If you want, you can PM me and I can tell you what worked for me
 
I know this isn’t an answer to your question since I’m not from your area, so feel free to ignore, but it is fairly doable to remove it yourself. It just takes some preparation and patience. I think there is a thread you can search for on this forum, but there’s also other threads on reddit that go over what worked for others

If you want, you can PM me and I can tell you what worked for me
What I'm afraid of is being stupid and accidentally breaking something 😂
 
I know this isn’t an answer to your question since I’m not from your area, so feel free to ignore, but it is fairly doable to remove it yourself. It just takes some preparation and patience. I think there is a thread you can search for on this forum, but there’s also other threads on reddit that go over what worked for others

If you want, you can PM me and I can tell you what worked for me
I’m in the same boat, that would be awesome if you could tell me what you did
 
I’m in the same boat, that would be awesome if you could tell me what you did
Besides the block, I used a few resources

I followed this video of a trigger change from Walther


And this step by step guide guide I found on Reddit


There is also this video showing the actually disconnect removal


I was able to use just a roll of tape for one of my PDPs but the other required the block. I would just go with the block from the start

Also if you follow the videos, if you're not changing out the trigger, you shouldn't need to remove the rear pin or mess with the sear housing
 
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I know this isn’t an answer to your question since I’m not from your area, so feel free to ignore, but it is fairly doable to remove it yourself. It just takes some preparation and patience. I think there is a thread you can search for on this forum, but there’s also other threads on reddit that go over what worked for others

If you want, you can PM me and I can tell you what worked for me
This ^ just DIY, it’s not as scary as you think and you will build confidence to fix/replace parts yourself.

If something goes seriously wrong, you’ll end up at the gunsmith anyways so might as well use it as a learning opportunity and save some $ too
 
I’m in the same boat, that would be awesome if you could tell me what you did

bryanwm18 got the main parts, the guide he linked and the videos are very helpful. I wish I had found the second video when I did mine, but it was completely doable in the end.

Anyway, if you follow those guides and videos you should be golden, but here are some tips from what I had just messaged the OP:

  • I used a roll of painters tape, you'll want to find something solid enough that can support the frame but not give too much when you're hammering out the slide lock lever. Duct tape is too soft IMO
  • Make sure you use a correct punch, it has to be thin enough and not taper out too widely
  • This one was key for me: insert an empty magazine when you're taking out the slide lock lever. It'll put the lever at the correct angle for hammering out
  • Hammering the punch takes a bit more force than you'd think, but not so much that you start worrying you'll actually break something. If it doesn't give, try seeping some pb blaster into where you're hammering on and leave it alone for a night or two, and try again later
  • You'll want to buy one of the plugs being sold off ebay, otherwise removing the disconnect leaves a hole in the frame. I think the seller is actually a member of our forum

It can take some time and prep work, so make sure you won't need your PDP if things take longer than expected (I think I recall you use it as a carry). If you plan on replacing the trigger with the DPT (not necessary at all but a really nice upgrade), you might as well do it while you've got the gun disassembled. Or you can do it later, it shouldn't be too hard to take the gun apart after doing it once.

Good luck!
 
I was thinking about getting a PDP and reached out to Accurate Arms in Livermore awhile back and the Owner Bob got back to me and confirmed they do this service. They also have the plug in stock.
 
Manzano Munitions in Santa Clara could probably do it, although I'm unsure if they have the plug. I also don't have a PDP but they've worked on my M&P before
 
bryanwm18 got the main parts, the guide he linked and the videos are very helpful. I wish I had found the second video when I did mine, but it was completely doable in the end.

Anyway, if you follow those guides and videos you should be golden, but here are some tips from what I had just messaged the OP:

  • I used a roll of painters tape, you'll want to find something solid enough that can support the frame but not give too much when you're hammering out the slide lock lever. Duct tape is too soft IMO
  • Make sure you use a correct punch, it has to be thin enough and not taper out too widely
  • This one was key for me: insert an empty magazine when you're taking out the slide lock lever. It'll put the lever at the correct angle for hammering out
  • Hammering the punch takes a bit more force than you'd think, but not so much that you start worrying you'll actually break something. If it doesn't give, try seeping some pb blaster into where you're hammering on and leave it alone for a night or two, and try again later
  • You'll want to buy one of the plugs being sold off ebay, otherwise removing the disconnect leaves a hole in the frame. I think the seller is actually a member of our forum

It can take some time and prep work, so make sure you won't need your PDP if things take longer than expected (I think I recall you use it as a carry). If you plan on replacing the trigger with the DPT (not necessary at all but a really nice upgrade), you might as well do it while you've got the gun disassembled. Or you can do it later, it shouldn't be too hard to take the gun apart after doing it once.

Good luck!
If I’m doing all of this insanity I’m definitely installing the trigger upgrade. I’ve never worked on guns like this
 
If I’m doing all of this insanity I’m definitely installing the trigger upgrade. I’ve never worked on guns like this

doing it on your own and experiencing the DPT will probably shoot this gun to the top of your favorite list
 
My PDP is currently at Accurate Arms in Livermore. I usually do these types of things myself, but with the difficulty of removing the slide stop I decided to have them do it. They forewarned me that they have done several of them and about half of them end up broken. Got a call and my frame ended up cracked. They contacted Walther and a new frame is on the way, they're covering DROS fee if needed. Their gunsmith tried to find the DPT but unavailable everywhere, so he's just doing the disco removal. The factory trigger is great so not worried about it. I had purchased the disconnect delete plug from eBay and the gunsmith was very happy with those in aluminum, he said the plastic ones not nearly as good. Will report back when it's done.
 
You don't, very rarely available standalone.
I don't know where people get them, but I have installed several of the Walther Dynamic Performance triggers so they are out there.
They all came kitted up in the plastic box with the cutout foam and installation manual.
 
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