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Apex trigger M&p 2.0

My brother, if you own it you should be able to work on it.

Couple simple tools and you can get the job done i promise.
Absolutely this! It took about 25 minutes going slow, double checking while I followed the youtube installation video, used a small 20 dollar harbor vise and now my M&P is AWESOME!
 
I have probably a dozen different vises in and around my workshop covering the range from 1" wide and 3/4" deep to 6" jaws with an 8" throat with an 5000lb clamping capability.
There are still times when it's better to bring the clamping force TO the workpiece than to bring the workpiece TO the clamping force.

Those are the times I use the Knipex.
The primary advantage of the Knipex over a typical vise with a leadscrew to close the jaws is that the Knipex jaws are so much narrower AND you can manipulate the part to see what you are doing better AND the clamping is applied with one hand that does not try to force the vise to move around if you are using a small un-mounted vise.
The fact that you hold the Knipex in one hand AND apply force at the same time is what makes it better than a vise at squeezing in very tight fitting trigger and hammer pins.
When you use a little un-mounted vise to push pins, you have to hold the vise in one hand and tighten with the other.
This does not leave you a free hand to align the pin and the part before you start applying pressure.
The alternative is to clamp the vise to the bench to free up a hand, but then you are back to bringing the work to the clamping force which precludes you from being able to change viewing angle as easy as the pliers wrench allow.

I wish I stumbled upon this advice 2 years ago before I popped in the Apex Trigger into my M&P 2.0... would have saved me a lot of time and effort!
 
Which size would you recommend for working on firearms? I think i would like these, but don't want to get a set if it is unnecessary.
I find the 7-1/4" and the 10" most useful.
The leverage is much better on the 10" if you only wanted to get one pair.
 
I have probably a dozen different vises in and around my workshop covering the range from 1" wide and 3/4" deep to 6" jaws with an 8" throat with an 5000lb clamping capability.
There are still times when it's better to bring the clamping force TO the workpiece than to bring the workpiece TO the clamping force.

Those are the times I use the Knipex.
The primary advantage of the Knipex over a typical vise with a leadscrew to close the jaws is that the Knipex jaws are so much narrower AND you can manipulate the part to see what you are doing better AND the clamping is applied with one hand that does not try to force the vise to move around if you are using a small un-mounted vise.
The fact that you hold the Knipex in one hand AND apply force at the same time is what makes it better than a vise at squeezing in very tight fitting trigger and hammer pins.
When you use a little un-mounted vise to push pins, you have to hold the vise in one hand and tighten with the other.
This does not leave you a free hand to align the pin and the part before you start applying pressure.
The alternative is to clamp the vise to the bench to free up a hand, but then you are back to bringing the work to the clamping force which precludes you from being able to change viewing angle as easy as the pliers wrench allow.
Advice like this is worth its weight in gold. To get it given to you is an incredible opportunity.

The old joke about experience like AR15barrels is true: Whenever I repaired a customers problem in 5 minutes they would say, "I have to pay $x,xxx.xx for 5 minutes work?" My answer, "Ma'am/Sir you are not paying for the 5 minutes work, you are paying for the 40 years of experience it took to learn to fix it in 5 minutes." :)
 
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